Hello readers! A guest contributor here again, the Two Bears’ friend Alex. The Bears have been kind enough to let me write for them again, this time as I go through Singapore, Hong Kong and Macau. Here is the first of (Hopefully) quite a few reviews this trip!
My first dining experience here in Singapore is a restaurant and chef I am quite familiar with, L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon Singapore. I always love coming to Mr. Robuchon’s restaurants, no matter where they are as they are both a familiar and different concept in each location. The decor may be the same, and the food structure similar, but each chef is given the chance to showcase a little of themselves too. I should note here, I had the discovery menu with the wine pairing here, as I will be doing for most of my dinners.
OK, onto the menu!
My first course was a foie gras custard with red porto wine gel and parmesan custard. The custard had a perfect texture, as did the gel. The saltiness of the parmesan foam complemented everything beautifully. All I wanted was more!
Next up, the symphony of cauliflower with olive oil and imperial caviar. The cauliflower appeared in two forms, a veloute and a pannacotta. I loved this, not necessarily for it’s individual components but it’s completeness when everything was brought together.
French white asparagus came next, topped with sea urchin and citrus. I must say, I adore asparagus, even the more bitter white variety. This dish was a treat. The asparagus was cooked perfectly, not raw but still holding some resistance. The sea urchin was a great accompaniment, even if I’m not particularly fond of it by itself. A citrus sabayon brought the dish together wonderfully.
Now, my favourite dish of the night. Stuffed morel mushroom with fresh chervil on goose liver emulsion. There is nothing I can write here that will convey my joy upon tasting this dish.
Roasted lobster came next, perfectly cooked and very tasty, with ‘lard d’Arna’ ham, green asparagus and a ‘Chateau-Chalon juice’. A beautiful dish, it was just a small shame it followed the morel.
A fish course, crispy amadai on artichoke salad, and a chickpea cappuccino. I loved this, the texture of everything balanced beautifully, highlighted by just how perfectly the fish was cooked. The addition of Espelette was not unnoticed, it added just the right amount of spice.
My main course. I had a choice of beef and duck, and I knew instantly I would go with the duck. And so it was, my main arrived and it could not have been any more delightful. I adored every mouthful, from the perfectly cooked duck breast, to the turnips, peas and foie gras. A perfect end to the savoury portion of the night.
I had to take a small break before dessert, and I’m glad I did. The first sweet offering was a little controversial, Victoria pineapple with vanilla, chartreuse verte sabayon and pistachio sorbet. I happen to be very fond of chartreuse (If you’re ever in a bar with me and shots come up, I can always be tempted by chartreuse with tabasco sauce) but I certainly understand not everyone will like it. It worked very well in this dish, the pistachio adding a beautiful element to bring everything together.
My last dessert, almost a warm chocolate fondant, made using Valrohna’s 72% Araguani was topped with a mint sorbet and a mint foam. I quite enjoyed this, I love warm chocolate desserts and the addition of some of Valrohna’s crispy pearls for texture was excellent.
Accompanying my coffee was a freshly baked madeleine and a rum chocolate truffle.
I had a wonderful experience, this restaurant is worth every single element of it’s two Michelin stars. It was quite expensive (Maybe prohibitively so for people unfamiliar with Mr. Robuchon’s restaurants) but I feel it was certainly worthy of the price. Overall, there are certainly worse restaurants you could be spending this kind of money at.
Atmosphere: ★★★☆☆ – (L’Atelier did 13 people including me while I was there, I imagine on a busier night, this rating would certainly be higher)
Address: 26 Sentosa Gateway, Singapore 098269
Tip! When you book, ask for a counter seat, it’s an open kitchen.